But now the word "chi" is rarely seen. Everything can be chi, from meat to vegetarian, favored by famous people. Lotus House | All Things

When it comes to bad fish, people in Jiangnan understand it, but when it comes to bad fish, many people are confused. In fact, both "zao" and "gui" refer to the method of marinating fish and vegetables with seasonings. "鲊" initially only referred to the pickling of fish, and as they were pickled, they became something that could be pickled by all things. When marinating fish, use rice and salt as seasoning. When making rice, either by pressing it with a stone or twisting it inside a cloth, it is done to remove moisture and add flavor, hence the word "rice".

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Wrapped in lotus leaves, it is highly favored by famous scholars. In the summer of the third year of the Changqing reign of the Tang Dynasty, with the sound of cicadas singing in the fields of lotus leaves, Yuan Zhen went to Yuezhou and passed by Hangzhou on the way. Bai Juyi held a boat banquet on West Lake to welcome his friends and enjoy the scenery of the lake and mountains. The table was filled with delicious dishes, including lotus fish buns and lotus leaf wrapped buns. Lotus room fish buns are made by taking fresh lotus pods, digging out lotus seeds, filling them with small fish balls, and steaming them until cooked. The freshness of the fish meat carries the fragrance of lotus pods. Lotus leaf wrapping is a method of marinating rice, cornel seeds, shredded orange peel, and raw fish slices mixed together, wrapped in green lotus leaves, similar to sushi. Famous scholars are charming and love food, so it is natural to write poetry and paintings for them. In ancient times, there were many delicacies, including Wang Xizhi's "Wrapped Rice Cake" and "Offering Orange Cake", Wang Xianzhi's "Sending Pear Cake", Yan Zhenqing's "Deer Preserved Rice Cake", Yang Ningshi's "Leek Flower Cake" and "Fish Cake", Huang Tingjian's "Wasty Ginger Cake", Su Dongpo's "Raspberry Cake"... Wang Xizhi is a true love powder for lotus leaf wrapped rice, not only loves to eat it himself, but also gives "Wrapped Rice Cake" to friends, and says if you think it's delicious, don't feel embarrassed. If you want to eat again, tell him. Zhao Mengfu appeared three times in a row in the "Wrapped Rice Calligraphy". I wonder if he had any saliva when he thought of the June wind and lotus, and rowing to wrap the rice Calligraphy?

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Among the fish, there are also jellyfish, big fish, razor clams, crabs, silver fish, fresh sturgeon, cool shrimp, clams, etc. It seems that the freshness of the river and sea can all be enjoyed. During the Western Han Dynasty, Emperor Zhao of Han used fragrant gold as a hook, frost silk as a fishing line, and red carp as bait to catch a three zhang long white dragon. This dragon looks strange, without scales or armor, with a two foot long fleshy horn on its head and teeth protruding from its lips. Emperor Zhao of Han ordered the imperial chef to turn this "dragon" into a "fish", with purple flesh and green bones, which was very delicious. It was a feast for ministers, and the emperor and ministers enjoyed it happily. What Emperor Zhao of Han caught was not a dragon in the water, but rather a fish and eel. Fan Cheng, a poet from the Southern Song Dynasty, was a great fisherman. He once wrote a poem begging for food. In his poem "Begging for Huangyan Fisherman from the Holy Collection," he said, "The cut jade paste is greasy and white, and the crispy and sticky millet is light red. Where does it come from a thousand miles? I want to see the waves and sails of the ship." When Lao Fan ate the crab paste in Huangyan, Taizhou, he couldn't help but praise it. The crab meat was as fat, white, crystal clear, sticky, and fragrant as soon as he took a sip, while the crab paste was light red and soft. If it was frozen, it would melt in his mouth. After eating, he couldn't forget it and felt embarrassed to ask someone directly, so he wrote this poem. He hoped that his friends could understand the mood of a foodie after seeing this poem, and also give him a few dried white crabs to satisfy his craving. The land of Wu and Yue loves to eat. Lu You once said, "Wine is like clear dew, like flowers." Wine is like clear dew in the mountains and forests of late autumn, and fish are as delicate as flowers. The flower like fish in the poem is called "Linglong Peony Fish" in the land of Wu and Yue. The fish slices are mixed with salt and mash, and arranged in the shape of peony flowers. After fermentation, the fish meat turns slightly red, like the blooming peony, which is lively and fragrant. So elegant, like a Song Dynasty poet, just listening is a kind of enjoyment.

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In the past, there were fish and birds. The birds are marinated with spices, pressed into a jar, fermented for several days, and then taken out to be eaten raw. The most famous one is the yellow sparrow croaker, which can be grilled for food and made more beautiful. Because the yellow sparrow is extremely fat and has fat on its back, it is also known as the "croaker croaker". 800 years ago, a woman from the Jiangnan region recorded in the "Wu Family's Zhongfu Lu" the family secret of the yellow sparrow: slaughtering the yellow sparrow, plucking its fur, removing its internal organs, washing it with wine, and then wiping it dry with soft cloth without touching water; Mix and stir seasonings such as wheat yellow, red yeast, salt, Sichuan pepper, and shredded scallions to blend the flavor. In the plaque and altar, lay a layer of seasoning, stack a layer of yellow sparrows, and stack them layer by layer until they are tightly packed. Cover with bamboo leaves, cut with bamboo strips, seal the mouth of the jar tightly, marinate until the brine comes out, pour out the brine, pour wine into the jar, seal and taste, and it is called Huangque Gui. In the Ming Dynasty's "Zhu Yu Shan Fang Za Bu", there is also a method for making yellow sparrows, but the difference is that various seasonings are stuffed into the body of the yellow sparrow, which is likely to make it more flavorful. The taste of yellow sparrow grass is delicious and unforgettable. Huang Tingjian, a famous figure in the Northern Song Dynasty, once wrote "Yellow Sparrow Grass". He said that after 12 years away from home, he rarely ate Yellow Sparrow Grass. Fortunately, Duke Zhang brought the yellow sparrow roe from Puyang. With this kind of roe in the soup of boiled noodles, the taste has improved by an unknown amount. No wonder wealthy families want to cultivate yellow sparrows for themselves to enjoy slowly. During the reign of Emperor Huizong of Song, the prime minister Wang Qian once housed a house full of yellow sparrows. When his family was raided, the yellow sparrows accumulated three rooms. Cai Jing, the prime minister of the Northern Song Dynasty, lived a luxurious life, with a team of over a hundred chefs and kitchen maids specifically responsible for cutting scallions into buns. There was a cake at home that was actually made from the stomach of a yellow sparrow. When Cai Jing was robbed of his home, the yellow sparrows in his house were stacked one by one, filling three rooms. There were also more than ninety bottles of yellow sparrows pickled with salted black beans. Cattle, sheep, and pork can also be used as meat. According to Duan Chengshi's "Youyang Zazu" from the Tang Dynasty, An Lushan was very popular in the court. Emperor Xuanzong of Tang often rewarded him with treasures and even gave him "wild boar meat" - pickled or smoked wild boar meat. King Qian Chu of Wu Yue went on a pilgrimage to the capital to pay his respects to Zhao Kuangyin. Zhao Kuangyin invited him to eat lamb skewers. The so-called Xuan Gui means that its pickling time is short. In addition to fish, bird, meat, and bamboo shoots, the method is a bit like cold mixed bamboo shoots. Peel off the shell of the fat and tender spring bamboo shoots and cut them into jade white bamboo shoots. After steaming, add Rice noodles, Chinese prickly ash, fennel, salt and other seasonings, mix them well into a pot, pour sesame oil and seal them, and they can be eaten after a period of time. Bamboo shoots are refreshing, crispy, and tender, very appetizing. From meat to vegetable, from heaven to earth, everything can have its own way. As time goes by, the word "鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊鲊.